An odd title?
Not really, The Place Near the Wall is the translation for Arevallon, the Celtic name for Arévalo, in the province of Ávila, Castile and León. It does indeed have walls, and within them once played a young girl. She was Queen Isabella I of Castile, who spent her childhood here and of course later married Ferdinand. What about Arévalo? Well, 6 churches, a castle, those walls of course, that Royal connection and beans?!
Where is it?
Officially an Historic – Artistic site, as declared by the government of Spain, thanks due to the Mudejar art. As you approach Arévalo which is north of Ávila by about 48kms, the colour palette is of various shades of green and yellow, this is agricultural land on a big scale and the whole area is covered by cereal fields. First sight of Arévalo will lead you to think that you have stepped right back in time.
Ancient bridges cross over the River Adaja, leading to old churches and medieval walls.
The old half timbered houses
Isabella´s childhood
When Isabella´s father, John II of Castile died, as sometimes happens still today, there was a bit of family rift with the money. Her half brother Henry became King Henry IV – and refusing to comply with his father´s will or wishes, Isabella, her brother Alfonso and their mother moved to Aravelo in somewhat abject poverty.
A castle it may have been but a bit of a `project requiring renovation´as an estate agent today might say! However, in spite of their bad luck she still managed to have quite a grounded childhood and accounts show that she was allowed to play normally within the walls until her half brother finally summoned her and Alfonso to live with him and his new wife in Segovia.
The rest,as they say, is history!
A castle standing strong - Arevalo
A walk around the walls
A stroll around town today and you can choose from exploring the famous walls, or take in the following sights:
- Church of San Martín – unusually it has twin towers
- Church of San Miguel – discover the art collection
- Church of San Juan
- Church of El Salvador
For the less ecclesiastical amongst you! – visit the:
- Palace of Cárdenas
- Palace of Río Ungria
- The Real Palace
- The Palace of Ballesteros Ronquillo – just a ruin
- The Palace of Sedeno
- The Palace of Vicente del Río
Or just wander the streets, the market place in the fairground - market is there every Tuesday, and the fair is there for fiestas - admire the half timbered old houses with their distinct style reminiscent of Elizabethan architecture.
Individual shops abound and you can always stop for a café con leche or a cool beer!
A wander around the shops
Countryside wanderings
Well the Museum of Cereal is the biggest clue to the agricultural activity in the surrounding area around town. Grain and cattle ranching are prevalent, and it shows in all of the menus that you are likely to find in the local eating places.
Beans are also big business – and those packets of dried pulses and beans – alubias blancas – to be found in supermarkets all over Spain are grown here in large numbers. So I guess that it´s also a windy sort of place!
The local gastronomic specialty is the suckling pig, cooked in a big oven fired by wood from the local forests - delicious with beans!
Fiestas?
July is the month to visit if you wish to join in the party, and the 7th is the date for celebrating the Festival of the local saint – Victorino.
Cabezudos- those over sized giant heads on costumes – are the dress of choice and drinking dancing and general partying goes on all night ending with some spectacular fireworks from the top of the castle which rain down on the crowds and light up the night.
Fireworks lighting up the sky at fiesta time
Castile and León is a wonderful part of Spain to discover and explore, here are some places to stay from the choice of Spanish holiday home rentals in neighboring Avila on the books at Spain Holiday – whether you want to visit for the party or the beans take a look and be sure to put Arévalo on your wish list of places to go in 2012!
Flickr credits for this post go to: diegoperez74/M. Martin Vicente/M. Martin Vicente/ Raúl A.
