When touring Spain you cannot help but come across pretty villages and towns. It goes with the territory. I never expected to find so many when i arrived in the northern part of the Costa Brava. I think the ‘three P’ villages of Palafrugell, Pals, Peratallada are a delight. Then there is the town Begur. Which is so so beautiful it positively beggars belief.
First impressions
A bay at Begur
As a teenager taking my first holiday abroad in the mid 1970′s, I had one impression of the Costa Brava. Not a good one. It bore no relation to what I discovered decades later when i made a journey through Spain
It’s beautiful on the Costa Brava. Nowhere more so than when you travel north east of Girona. So many people take cheap flights to the local airport, but immediately head south to Barcelona. They never get to see what is so much closer to hand.
I went to see where a former colleague had bought her second home, in the tranquil coastal resort of Sa Riera, located near the town centre of Begur. She bought well. It’s a great location and a good place to make your base when exploring the region.
The Cap de Begur has an international feeling to it. People from all over the world live there for at least part of the year. There are many properties to choose from should you wish to rent a town house or a villa in Begur Most properties here have private gardens. Begur and the surrounding area do not feel like a tourist destination. Mass tourism can be found much further south along the Costa Brava.
It’s a bit posh around here. House prices are high. But it is a classy part of Spain and, if you cannot afford to live here, you must at least make a visit.
All Pals together
Pals
Pals is located six kilometres from Begur. It’s a pretty and perfect place. For a number of years this fortified village was left to ruin. It was rebuilt soon after the Civil War thanks to the vision of a local doctor who worked tirelessly to restore Pals to its former glory. Today there are properties both old and new to rent in Pals
Peratallada is another ancient village steeped in history. A number of the properties date from the 13th century. There are some delightful restaurants in the area and the cuisine in this part of Spain that is so very close to France is, as one would expect, of the highest order.
Meanwhile, Calella de Palafrugell is picture postcard perfect. If you cannot take a good picture of this location then throw away your camera and take up knitting! The coastline is rocky but there are many small beaches where, outside of high season, you can be largely alone.
La Bisbal D’Emporda is located on the main road between Begur and Girona. It’s a medieval market town where ceramics have been manufactured since the 17th century. You’ll be spoiled for choice when perusing the local shops selling crafts and ceramics.
Best of everything
Palafrugell
Llafranc and Tamariu are possibly the most sought after locations anywhere on the northern stretch of the Costa Brava. This is an upmarket location, awash with money, expensive boats, beautiful beaches and exquisite restaurants serving the best regional dishes. Tamariu is named after the tamarind trees which can be seen in great numbers. Sometimes they are hiding the plush villas that are available to rent in Tamariu
Inland there is some glorious countryside to take in. And, as part of the Vias Verdes or Green Route scheme, you can get on your bike and take time to savour the splendour.
The region is also popular with devotees of wine. In particular white wine For me there are two regions of Spain where white wine is of the highest quality. Galicia, in the north west of the country, and here in the north east. I could have spent a day in one of the many wine warehouses in the Begur area. In fact, I quite possibly did!
Do Dali
Painting a picture
For centuries, this area has been a haven for artists. I’m not sure it helps to have had a glass of wine before visiting the Salvador Dali museum in Figueres It’s a mesmerising and bizarre place. It’s also the chosen burial ground of Dali. The museum is best seen and appreciated at times when the school coach parties have left the building.
Why not instead take a trip to his former mansion, Castell de Púbol at La Pera. Or his very distinctive former home in the bay of Port Lligat, which is walking distance should you be renting in the pretty coastal resort of Cadaqués. You’ll spot the house. It’s the one with the crazy egg like structures on the roof – and lots of tourists taking photographs of same.
He was a crazy guy, that Dali. But credit where it is due. He knew where to live and die.
I can’t think of another corner of Spain where I’d be more content to do likewise.
