I confess I’ve always liked birdwatching. But not the type that requires me to carry a pair of binoculars. Most of mine has been undertaken while sat in the sunshine with a beer in my hand. And there’s never been a feather in sight!
But I do like spotting the birds with beaks as they fly overhead.
But to be a serious bird spotter in Spain requires time and patience. I have neither, sadly. But I know people who do.
They are the lucky ones. They enjoy what is one of the least talked about highlights of living or holidaying in Spain.
Golden Oriel
Take Ian Williams for one. He has been birdwatching for 30 years, the last three near Lanjaron in the La Alpujarra region of Andalusia. He talks enthusiastically about what is on offer in the area. If only you look up.
Ian says: “Even in the short time I have been here I have been amazed by the rich variety of birds I have encountered. To really understand the birdlife and different habitats of the region nothing beats spending as much time as you can in the field. Do that, and you learn something new every day.
“We’re very lucky to have a number of locations in Andalusia widely recognized for their ornithological importance. Visits to Fuente de Piedra, near Antequera, to see the Greater Flamingos, or to El Torcal, near Malaga, for the Griffon Vultures are hugely enjoyable. There are many other destinations that can be reached by car within a couple of hours.
“I think my favourite locations, however, are right on our doorstep. The hills around our village can be hugely productive and there’s nothing like getting to know your local patch as well as you possibly can.”
Griffon Vulture
For my own part I recall my amazement when, in my first June in the country, I stood on my roof terrace and watched the sunset display put on by hundreds of Swifts and House Martins. A show more spellbinding than any television show.
Then, only the other day, I spotted a Booted Eagle hovering overhead. The next day, and a short walk from my front door, I saw a Hoopoe and a Golden Oriel.
Andalusia is the place to be for many reasons. Watch our high definition video to see why. And it is the place to be in Spain if you want to spot birds as they fly to and from North Africa as the months change. For a start off 90.000, yes ninety thousand, House Martins fly across the Sahara each autumn. The timing of migration depends on the weather.
Sea crossing
I am fascinated by the migration of birds to and from Spain. And I envy them. Imagine being able to fly across Europe without having to worry about the weight of your luggage and having to pay all those taxes!
Andalusia is a mecca for bird watchers all year long but, come spring and autumn, men and women carrying their binoculars can be found parked up in their cars in locations such as Tarifa, Cadiz and Gibraltar. Millions of birds are making their way between Africa and Europe.
You can see an awful lot simply with the naked eye. Storks will be nesting on pylons, Eagles and even Vultures will be seen gliding on thermals. Then there is the Bee Eater. You should see lots of these.
Cadiz
Cadiz is a marvellous city. I love the place. So much to see, So much character and, of course, those beaches. In autumn you will find many a birdwatcher along the coastline as they spot birds that are stopping off en route to take shelter or pick up some take away food.
Further along the coastline is the windy but wonderful Tarifa. Most people go there to experience wind and water based sports. But you will see people looking up to the skies. They might be watching Sanderlings or Plovers. It is another short hop for the birds travelling between Spain and Africa, including the White Stork.
Taking a break
Birds such as Raptors rely on thermals and updrafts when flying. They cannot benefit from these if they fly over wide expanses of water. That is why many birds choose to take short cuts from Africa, such as to nearby Tarfia. Or they fly over the fifteen to twenty kilometres of water that divides Africa from Gibraltar. Here you should witness thousands of Storks arriving in spring, or departing around September.
Binoculars at the ready on Tarifa beach
Spotting sea birds migrate is especially good from Malaga bay, Barbate and Punta Secreta in Cadiz. The gorgeous town of Jimena de la Frontera has many attractions, including the castle. Again, this is a good place from which to spot birds such as Kites, Eagles and Buzzards. If you spot a Griffon Vulture you’ll be amazed at its over two metre wingspan.
If you sit outside Gibraltar you’ll see plenty of Honey Buzzards, Black Kites and Short Toed Eagles.
Cadiz province has some some birdwatching sites that are well known. La Janda is 40 kilometres north west of Tarifa and was, until around 40 years ago, the site of a large lake and reedbeds. The lake has gone but the birds still arrive there in big numbers in order to feed. They include Wrynecks, Purple Herons and Little Bustards.
Travel south east and you will come across the Natural Park of Los Alcornocales. This remote park has extensive cork oak woodlands, so loved by the Griffon and Egyptian Vulture and the Spanish Imperial Eagle.
Storks with a taste for Sherry
Jerez de la Frontera is another location where you can watch the birdies. For example, if you go to see the regular display of the finest Andalusian horses at the Equestrian School in Jerez, you will also witness storks nesting above one of the many Sherry bodegas in this town where they like a tipple.
Then, of course, there is the Coto Doñana in Huelva. Here you are but a short distance from the border with Portugal. The coastal sand dunes here, along with stone pine woodland and marshlands, all go to make this the number one wetland site in western Europe. Park your car alongside the lake and marshes at El Rocio. Sit back and watch a wonderful display. Whiskered and Black Terns, Avocets and Spoonbills feed in the shallow waters of the lake.
Serrana de Grazalema
Coming back along the coast in an easterly direction you have the option of turning inland and making a very worthwhile journey to the vast Parque Natural Sierra de Grazalema
Many birds love this terrain, including the Spanish Fir or Pinsapo, Red Kites and the Wheatear.
When you visit the Grazalema park to spot birds you can get a free permit that allows you to areas of the park where, in spring and early summer, some birds breed.
If you want to come close to experiencing the heights to which the birds rise, then visit the 1400 metre high Puerto de las Palomas north of Grazalema. If you like walking around Spain, then take a hike up to the 1700 metre peak that is east of the mirador. Stand on this vantage point for a great view of Griffon Vultures.
The park is pretty but if you need a fix of culture then Ronda is not far way. Even here you can spot birds. Stand by the famous gorge and look down. You will likely see Grey Heron and maybe, at dusk, the odd Squacco Heron.
Look down to watch birds in Ronda
All year long there will be around two hundred and fifty species of bird in Andalusia.
The problem I have always had is being able to know what I am seeing. Even if I have gone out prepared with my trusty binoculars, I then have to try to remember what I have seen and go home to check likely candidates in my birds of Spain book.
As a boy who grew up watching sparrows in his back garden, it takes some believing that I have just seen an Eagle or a Vulture.
Bee Eater
All over Spain there are people who organise birdwatching holidays and days out for people who come from all over the world.
Ian Williams organises days out via Birdwatch Alpujarras. That might be on a day trip, or for a longer holiday. The villages of La Alpujarra offer many places to stay and there is plenty to distract the birdwatcher. But I have found them to be people who cannot be persuaded to leave their own perch for a seat in the nearest tapas bar.
Ian says: “We cater for people with all levels of experience. Many bring their own optical equipment along, and we provide binoculars for those that need them. Beginners are always most welcome. Patience is required. Wildlife doesn’t always stick to the itinerary. I think the greatest requirements are a love of the outdoors and a genuine desire to keep learning more about the natural world. ”
Greater Flamingo at Laguna de Fuente de Piedra
So what is the holy grail of birdwatching for someone like Ian? The ones that have, so far in Spain, got away.
He says: “I’d really like to see a Black-winged Kite or a Spanish Imperial Eagle, and some of the “steppe” species like the bustards and Blackbellied Sandgrouse would be terrific. The truly great thing of course, is that we are in the right part of the world to find these and a host of other birds that back in the UK you just read about in bird guides. I can’t wait to pack my kit and get out again.”
That’s what I like about birdwatching. The people are so passionate about their subject.
And, like the birds, such very nice creatures!
*additional photography courtesy of Ian Williams of Birdwatch Alpujarras
