The joy of travelling around Spain is in the discovery of pastures new.
Coming across places, by design or accident, that live long in the memory – and not always for the most obvious reasons.
Maybe you simply took a wrong turn and discovered a gem.
Or you set off to see a well known destination but, instead, opted to follow a signpost out of curiosity.
I’ve been known to do all of the above and, on each occasion, I was very glad I did.
Pitch up in Pitres
Let me begin in the delightful La Alpujarra mountains above Granada. This is where I head for when my head is hurting. When I need to get back in contact with my sane self.
The fresh air, the scenery, the friendly people and laid back way of life there clearly have restorative powers. I come away feeling like I can take on any challenge and with my batteries fully charged.
Maybe it is that clean, crisp air that I breath into my lungs and stock up on. Perhaps it is the fresh water on offer in the pretty villages of La Alpujarra.
If you need a break that will both energise and relax you, head for La Alpujarra. There is plenty of it to choose from. Some of the region falls within the province of Granada. The remainder in Almeria.
Pitres from gardens of Cortijo Opazo
The village of Pitres comes under the former category. It is one of seven small villages or hamlets that come under the banner of La Taha. These are located in one of the more sheltered parts of La Alpujarra. You are only a few kilometres from the better known villages that are located in the Poqueira Gorge. Places such as Bubion and Capileira.
But lower down in the La Taha district, the temperature will be warmer, the climate more predictable and the winds less strong than in those higher locations.
There are half a dozen hamlets located below Pitres and they include Mecina Fondales and Ferreirola.
This area is famous for its music and many concerts are held in Pitres and neighbouring villages. The main square of Pitres is a pleasant place to sit with a drink and watch the world go by. It goes by very slowly here. Do wander the high roads and the low roads out of the village. You are sure to come across something that will excite and please you.
That was the case when I first strayed just out of Pitres towards neighbouring Portugos and, taking a right turn following a sign for Atalbeitar, I came across a sign telling me that the gardens of Cortijo Opazo were open to the public. Something that happens each Friday.
Owners Robert and William left their stressful lives in England some years ago now and, although working very hard at growing their own this and that; they are now very relaxed with their lives.
Who wouldn’t be when they look out on some of the most jaw dropping scenery anywhere in Spain?
Portugos, La Alpujarra
They rent out a couple of rooms to guests who arrive wanting to get away from it all. To chill out. Now having paying guests stay with you can be hard work. But Robert and William enjoy meeting nice people who want to explore La Alpujarra.
It is their garden that keeps Robert and William sane. They have created a colourful space that manages to combine locally grown plants that survive the cool winters, with plants from England that cannot be bought in Spain.
It is a sprawling cottage garden where they grown many vegetables. I’ve tasted their produce and it is full of flavour and tasty.
A bit like some of the tapas bars in Pitres and nearby Mecina Fondales. This is going to sound a bit strange but I know of many people that drive a long way to the last named hamlet to enjoy what they describe as “the best pizza we’ve tasted outside of Italy.” It’s a traditional village bar that serves up this highly rated pizza. You will not struggle to find the place. It is, after all, the place.
Whether you are working up an appetite, or walk off the calories after lunch; you must park the car and go on a pleasant walk around these villages. The countryside cries out for you to go for a stroll or, as many visitors do, a more serious hike.
Climbing Castril
Castril
Castril was one of those places in Spain I came across courtesy of taking a wrong turn. What a result! It makes getting lost so much more bearable when you end up in a lovely village or town, rather than in the middle of a farmers plot of land or a field of olive trees.
What can you do when you get lost in Spain and end up somewhere you never intended to see? Easy. Find the nicest looking bar. Have a drink. Take in your surroundings. Don’t bother with a tourist office, even if there is one. The chances are it is closed or manned by someone who hides in the backroom the moment they smell a tourist coming their way.
Instead, let your feet do the discovering.
Watch the birdie
That’s what I did in Castril. An out of the way place that is set amidst very dramatic scenery. The walk took me to and along some of those slightly shaky wooden walkways above the river. Now I’ve always had a fear of walking across planks of wood with gaps between them ever since I was a child and my brother swung the bridge back and forth.
But, in Castril, I was very brave. The truth is that to all but a young child the bridges and paths are not at all scary. They are secure and offer you great views of, for example, the birds nesting in rocks opposite.
Castril de la Peña is located in the Sierra de Castril natural park. This adjoins the equally spectacular Sierra de Cazorla – a peaceful and large area that you simply must experience. Castril is surrounded by four lakes including the serene Lake Negratin, one of the most peaceful places I have been to in Spain.
Cycling and walking are popular ways to pass the time here but it is the scale of the mountains that attracts the adventurous rock climbers. Look up and admire how dramatic these rocks are, and then be amazed at high the climbers are.
Hanging around Setenil
Dramatic rocks also play a part in attracting people to the third location I first discovered by chance. Setenil de las Bodegas is more famous than Castril. Located within the province of Cadiz – but closer to Ronda - it is, in my experience, a pretty unique town in Spain. An odd place in some ways, but one you must see. You’ll never forget it, that is for sure.
The coach parties come to see the hanging cliffs and the houses standing underneath them. The rear walls and roof of many properties are literally rock. It’s a small place and it will not take you long to stroll around it. Do so. The locals have long since grown accustomed to tourists taking photographs of their stand out village.
Setenil de las Bodegas
Setenil used to be known for its production of wine (hence the ‘Bodegas’). However, in the mid 19th century a vine disease swept through parts of Europe and this brought wine production in Setenil to an end.
So what can you pick up today as a memento of your visit? Well some of the three thousand or so residents of Setenil have turned their hands to producing perfect pastries and churning out chorizo.
Below the village is the river Trejo and if you climb up to the back you will see the Moorish castle that is one of many such monuments worth seeing in Spain. The place is steeped in history with 15th century bridges and 16th century caves. You really do feel as though you have stepped back in time when taking in the surroundings of Setenil de las Bodegas.
Rock solid
There are cafes and restaurants for you to savour but its the image of Setenil that will live long in the memory.
That sentiment applies to all the places I have found by chance. Discovering Spain does require research, maps or even satellite navigation if you like that sort of thing.
But finding gems like these by virtue of getting lost makes the experience all that more satisfying.
