Morocco is a beautiful and fascinating country that sits right on Spain’s doorstep.
If you want to experience something new, something exotic and something that will really stimulate your senses – a day (or a weekend) trip visit to Morocco is just the thing.
Many people opt for one of the numerous ‘package’ deals going across to Tangier for the day. Tangier is a beautiful city and is well worth a visit.
But it has been somewhat ruined by all the day visitors who come across and spend vast quantities of money and get back on the boat. It has produced a sense of urgency as numerous hustlers await the next boatload of tourists.
It can be an overwhelming experience for a first visit to Morocco.
Chefchaouen (Chaouen) – A World of blue….
A far better option is a visit to the beautiful Berber town of Chefchaouen (known as Chaouen as well).
Chefchaouen really is a Jewel. It’s quiet, clean and provides a great introduction to Morocco.
It is one of the few places I have visited in Morocco where you really are left to your own devices.
The Berbers are a very relaxed and gentle people; they seem almost indifferent to the numerous tourists that visit.
The town is beautiful. Really beautiful. It is one of the photographed towns in Morocco and it is easy to see why……Walking its blue streets is mesmerizing….
Things to see and do
Just wandering around Chefchaouen’s Medina is an experience.
Despite the blue colour, the old part of the city has a distinctly Andalusian feel to it. The Medina is small and uncrowded. The atmosphere is very relaxed and unrushed, unlike many of the other Medinas in North Africa. Its a great way to immerse yourself into the local customs and prepare yourself for some of the bigger/busier ones you’d find in Fez or Marrakech for example.
In the heart of the Medina is Plaza Uta El- Hammam with numerous restaurants and cafés around it. It is a great place to stop for a drink and watch the World go by.
The Plaza is dominated by the Grande Mosque that dates back to the 15th Century. Unfortunately, visiting the inside is not allowed for non-Muslims.
Just off the square is the Kasbah – which is home to one of Chefchaouen’s most beautiful gardens. Well worth a visit.
For a more traditional experience try the Hammam – traditional Arabic bathes. There are several in the town and days alternate between men’s and women’s. You need to check locally. Its a fantastic experience and definitely one worth trying.
The trekking in and around the Riff mountains is second to none.
The Talassemtane National Park borders the town and offers some great hiking. Visiting the tiny of villages of Kalaa and Akchour is recommended.
A great way to cool off in the summer months is a visit to the local waterfall (Ras el Maa), situated just off the main square.
If spending more time in the area – there is another – and far more impressive – series of waterfalls about three hours walk (or 45 mins by taxi) called Oued Keela. It a great place for a swim or to spend the day in nature. A beautiful place.
For the more energetic a hike up Jebel al-Kalaa offers some spectacular views of the surrounding countryside (takes around nine hours there and back).
If going well off the beaten track it is advisable to go with a registered company and/or a local guide. Many parts of the Riff are used for intensive Kif (Marijuana) production and growing – some villages are wary of tourists (Ketama being one to avoid!!).
Local companies and guides know the places to avoid (or find depending on your tastes!) and should help with the local traditions and customs in the smaller villages.
Getting there
Traveling in Morocco can be daunting for people who have never visited Morocco or the African continent previously.
These directions are very concise and will hopefully help. Prices are based on a visit during 2011. Most prices in Morocco are ‘flexible’ and are mainly down to your negotiation skills. Haggling is way of life in Morocco and is done everywhere.
Official prices – such as those for buses – should be set and fixed (unless getting ‘help’ to purchase your ticket!)….taxis prices are a free-for-all….be prepared to haggle.
If traveling with children or not wanting to take any local buses, you can easily get a taxi to take you straight from the ‘Frontera’ to Chefchaouen. The price will be fairly steep (by Moroccan standards) and will vary widely (see above) but expect to pay around 350 Dirhams, approximately 30€. If not read on……
Use these prices as a rough guide only.
- They are regular buses leaving from Tangiers to Cheouen. A far easier and more comfortable route is via Ceuta. There are numerous ferry crossings from Algeciras to Ceuta.
- The three biggest ferry companies are Acciona, FRS and Balearia. Between them they offer almost hourly ferries across to Ceuta. The crossing takes between 30mins and one hour (depending on the boat). The price varies slightly, but a return ticket for an adult (without a vehicle) is around 50€.
- As Ceuta is part of Spain, you have no customs, you now need to make your way to the border (La Frontera) – walking out of the terminal you’ll see several supermarkets on your left. Keep walking past them and just round the corner on the right you’ll see a bus stop. You want bus number 7, for ‘La Frontera,’ it’s approximately a 15 minute journey (costing 0.8€) and is the last stop. You can’t miss it. Failing that, you can catch one of the numerous taxis just outside of the terminal, the price shouldn’t be more than 5€ to the border.
- The border is a nightmare and usually takes a while to get the required exit/entry stamps from the Spanish and Moroccan customs. There are people willing to help speed up the process (for a small fee), by filling in and presenting your forms for you. During the busier summer months this is not a bad idea. But never lose sight of your passport.
- Once you walk across the border – you’ll know you have arrived in Morocco. There are normally scores of people all shouting and hustling, trying to get you into their taxis/buses/homes etc etc…..This is the only point in your journey that you need to keep an eye on your belongings and to look determined, or at least look like you know where you going.
- There are local buses into Tetouan, most people, however, catch shared taxis – known as ‘Collectivos’ – be sure to stress that you are in no hurry and would like a ‘collectivo taxi’ to Tetouan. The driver will then wait for the taxi to fill up (very quick) before making his way.
- The 45minute journey to Tetouan should cost between 2€ and 4€.
- You need to get to the central bus station in Tetouan . There are regular buses leaving Tetouan and going into the Riff – nearly all stop in Chefchaouen. Double check everything at the ticket counter, the price is around 15 Dirhams – 3€. The bus takes 1.5hrs to get to Chefchaouen.
- Accommodation is widely available and is generally of a decent standard. Most of the hotels/hostels are aimed at backpackers and are priced as such. Casa Perla and Hotel Andaluz two budget ones that are good. Hotel Atlas Chaouen is the most luxurious (four stars) and for a traditional Moroccian Riad (run by an English couple) Dar Gabriel is highly recommended.
