Every year on the first weekend of September, the village of Almachar pays homage to the traditional Andalusian soup of Ajoblanco. The whole village transforms into one large party with families and local businesses giving out free samples of the local wine, moscatel grapes and, of course, gallons of Ajoblanco. Sounds strange. It is. But feeling particularly drawn to anything with the word ‘free’ in it, we decided to go along and see what it was all about.
Ajoblanco
A traditional cold soup made from bread, crushed almonds, garlic, olive oil and sometimes vinegar. Ajoblanco – translated literally as white garlic – is a popular dish found in many regions of Southern Spain and parts of Extremadura. The soup is a perfect example of a Spanish/North African fusion that has been adapted, yet preserved throughout time. And it tastes fantastic!!
The village of Almachar
Almachar is known as the raisin capital of the Axarquía. Just 15km from the coast, its name is drived from the Arabic “Al Maysar”, meaning “the Meadows.” Situated along what is known as the ‘Raisin Route – Ruta de la Pasa.’
The main raisin producing villages, in the area, are Benalgabon, Mochlinejo, Almáchar, El Borge and Comares. The village has a population of approximately 2000 people, who are known as Almachareños.
September
September is harvest time. And party time. Every one of the villages celebrates their local fiestas. None are more popular that Almachar’s Ajoblanco festival. It has recently been designated as a National Tourist Interest in Andalusia and is growing in popularity every year.
The village is turned into one large guided tour. Signs are hung up pointing out areas of interest – the 6th Century San Mateo Church, the Raisin museum and various little squares.
Along the way, visitors are given glasses of Moscatel wine, Ajoblanco and grapes. In the evening, there are a series of Flamenco concerts in the main squares and Verdiales can be heard throughout the streets.
Getting there
Although driving to Almachar is fairly straightforward, it not for the faint hearted, or anyone prone to car sickness. The road winds up from Rincon de la Victoria, passing through Benalgabon and Mochlinejo before eventually falling back onto Almachar and El Borge (and eventually Velez Malaga).
It’s a beautiful journey with spectacular views over the Axarquia. We stopped off on several occasions to admire the views and on the way back, to star gaze.
The villages themselves, are as traditional and unchanged as you could hope for, feeling very Moorish in character. Whole communities seem to cling to the mountain side, with white-washed buildings, small winding streets, most of which, lead to little squares or plazas.
If you are visiting the area during September and want to experience a authentic Andalusian village fair, the Ajoblanco fair is most definitely worth the effort.
