Andalusia is a popular destination for many reasons. Its beaches. It’s well known tourist attractions. Some vibrant and fascinating cities to discover.
I wouldn’t have thought that the glorious of gardens in Andalusia would be high on the ‘must see’ list. But then, as I discovered recently, I would have been wrong.
This month alone keen gardeners and horticulturists from all over the world are arriving in locations such as Granada, Cordoba, Seville and other destinations in order to see the very best of green Spain.
Green Spain
Viana Palace, Cordoba
I have been fortunate enough to see many of the finest public and private gardens all over Spain. Some of the finest are in southern Spain.
I began my journey in Malaga, a city popular for its many attractions including some memorable museums.
But I was there to find the botanical gardens. I could see them, located just off a big intersection of motorways. They were within touching distance. They were ever so close to me, but could I get to them? It took me hours, literally, to find the right exit and get to the entrance. It was well worth the effort.
Tropical Malaga
Concepcion Gardens, Malaga
The Finca de la Concepción gardens sit beside the motorway network that takes you to Malaga Airport and beyond. I got there eventually and was amazed to discover that I could not hear the motorway once in the calm environment of this tropical paradise. This is a garden for those who love their plants and trees to be extra large. In total there are over 800 tropical and subtropical species. There are 100 varieties of palm tree.
Tall trees in Malaga
The tallest tree in the entire province of Malaga stands at 45 metres high. It is the Araucaria Bidwilli Hook – or monkey puzzle tree. Look up and admire its full splendour. The monkey puzzle is under threat. Fires, climatic change and the use of its strong trunk for building purposes are all contributing to making this unique tree a rare species.
The Concepción Gardens are not just for show. Much studying takes place here by environmentalists, teachers and plant experts from around the globe. There is also a workshop where young people can learn basic gardening and nursery skills as well as how to create watering systems.
Córdoba Colour
Córdoba colour
Córdoba, an historic city famous for the La Mezquita, is also big on gardens. The city is famous for its annual May patio festival, but it offers plenty of colour all year.
Here you are spoilt for choice when it comes to beautiful gardens, such as those at the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos. The gardens boast one of the largest variety of plants in Spain. Palm trees are prominent along with the statuesque cypresses. In the oldest section of the gardens orange and lemon trees are plentiful.
Adjacent to the most visited tourist attraction in Córdoba, La Mezquita, is the Patio de los Naranjos. This is believed to be the oldest living garden in Europe. Another must see is across town. The Viana Palace in Córdoba boasts truly delightful gardens and thirteen interconnected patios. The house dates from the 17th century and was built on the site of two Roman houses.
Garden fit for a Duchess
In Sanlúcar de Barrameda, a must visit location in Andalusia, you should climb above the town to see the tranquil gardens of the 16th century Palacio de los Duques de Medina Sidonia (pictured above). Until her death a few years ago it was home to a lady known as the ‘red duchess.’ She was a vocal opponent of General Franco and was known for giving away so much of her wealth to the poor. The building is now a peaceful hotel, but its beautiful gardens are open to residents and non residents alike.
Little Cuba in Motril
Water gardens, Casa de los Bates
Plants, cake and lemonade
Cortijo Opazo
Not far from Motril, but in an altogether different area, are the gardens and plant life of La Alpujarra. This mountainous region can suffer very severe winters but enjoy hot summers, albeit often with a nice cooling breeze. The garden is 1250 metres above sea level. Robert and William began creating a splendid, cottage like garden at Cortijo Opazo in 2004. It is close to the charming towns of Pitres and Portugos. The many years of hard work have paid off. It is now a beautiful space with breathtaking views. You are free to wander the gardens every Friday.
Even better. Every Friday you can sit in the gardens and sample home made cake and lemonade and – when I was there at least – ice cream was on sale. Made from rhubarb grown in the garden. The food served to visitors and residents alike is made using produce grown in the garden of Cortijo Opazo.
La Alpujarra garden
Robert and William suggested I join a tour organised by Green Spain. So it was that I went on a full day walking tour of the gardens of Granada with the good people who run Granada Gardens. They take you behind the scenes of public and private gardens in the city. Green spaces such as those at Carmen de la Victoria, Carmen de los Mártires and Casa Aljibe del Rey. But, crucially, they also access areas not usually seen by tourists walking the cobbled streets of the Albaicin.
Touring Granada Gardens
Carmen de la Victoria
Granada is a great location for a city break. It has numerous attractions to enjoy. Some very visible. Others more hidden. Here’s a taste of what the city of Granada has to offer.
The Albaicin is full of glorious carmens (villas with gardens), some of which have been there since the 15th century. These very private gardens are rarely open to members of the public. I joined a couple of keen gardeners from New York as we strolled, in a very relaxed manner, through the streets of Granada as the weather swung between torrential rain and warm sunshine. It didn’t feel like hard work. Nor, according to those who run Granada Gardens, should it.
“We never take on groups of more than twenty people” says Sofia Lyttle. “We much prefer small groups, even couples. That way we can all discuss the gardens more personally and admire the plants without having to shout out information about their origins or about the history of the garden. It’s much more personal than that.”
Carmen Mártires
The most famous gardens in Granada are, of course, those of the Generalife at the Alhambra Palace. As with so many of the gardens open to the public throughout Spain, water is the driving force in the Generalife. The water stairway, known as the staircase of the Lions, leads to the uppermost part of the Generalife.
Just across the road, and often overlooked by those who visit the Alhambra Palace, is the Carmen de los Mártires. It has a splendid and varied history. More recently it has undergone a programme of improvements that have only enhanced what is a delightful collection of gardens that is home to a wide variety of trees and plants. The gardens are vast and surround the splendid villa from which there are magnificent views of the city of Granada.
Garden with a view
It was a wonderful place to sit and relax as our eight hour walking tour of the gardens in the city came to an end. It only remained for our small party to go to a tapas bar in Granada and compare notes on plants, pots and palms.
When you are planning a visit to Granada, do not rush it. There is plenty of choice when it comes to renting in the Granada area. Likewise there are many options on offer regarding things to do in the city.
Touring its gardens may not be the most obvious way of seeing Andalusia; but it has to be one of the most enjoyable.
