All manner of things lead people to visit Spain. I’ve come across people on a mission to spot a rare bird, to fish and even some lighthouse spotters.
But it’s those who admire horse flesh that I most enjoy meeting. They travel from far and wide with one mission in mind. To see in person the magnificence of the Andalusian horse.
Admiring the Andalusian
Starting young
It was the Duke of Newcastle who once said: “The Spanish horse is the noblest horse in the world, the most beautiful that can be.”
He wasn’t wrong. The Andalusian is graceful. It is a beautiful and very intelligent breed of horse.
The history of the Andalusian horse is fascinating. What is striking is how the horse has not altered from centuries ago.
I myself come from a family steeped in an equine background. Shame on me then that I have never been brave enough to sit on a horse. Bet on one, yes. Take thousands of photos of them, yes. I admire the splendour of horses. Be they on the racecourse or, as so often is the case in Spain, prancing around a showground.
Horses in Jerez
Showgirl
There are many places that you can go to ride horses in Spain. There are also several horse riding holidays on offer, especially in Andalusia. Holidays for the novice rider and for the expert.
I enjoy seeing the horses strut their stuff at annual ferias or at horse shows. There is an annual one near me in Granada, held each autumn, over a long weekend. I never miss it.
But, of course, the first port of call for most people wanting to see the Andalusian horse in the flesh is Jerez de la Frontera. A city which, like these horses, is a class act. Jerez is renowned for being home to the finest Andalusian horses. And, of course, its production of some of the finest sherry in the world.
Thousands of people flock to the annual Feria de Caballo each spring. This has to be one of the best ferias anywhere in Spain. It is a celebration of this magnificent horse and if you are in Andalusia, and into horses, do try and get to Jerez for the feria usually held in the month of May.
Should you miss this annual show, don’t worry. You can see some of the best dancing and prancing horses in Jerez for twelve months of the year.
School for horses
Equestrian School, Jerez
The Carthusian horses were first bred in the 15th century at the La Cartuja monastery. Today some of the best stud farms in the world are in the vicinity.
If you visit the very splendid buildings and gardens of the Royal Andalusian School and Museum of Equestrian Art in the avenue Duque de Abrantes, you will witness a formal show that displays the skills of both horse and rider.
It is a superbly choreographed show and is one of those ‘must see’ attractions in Andalusia. Sadly you will not be allowed to photograph the show and any attempt to do so will be thwarted by eagle eyed stewards. They can spot a camera a mile away.
Well bred
Yeguda de la Cartuja
There are no such restrictions at the Yeguda de la Cartuja centre located on the old estate of Fuente del Suero just outside the City. You should seek out this less well known tourist attraction.
Here the atmosphere is more laid back and interactive. You are allowed to meet the horses face to face in their stables and thereafter watch them perform. The display is memorable and I much preferred the less formal, user friendly exhibition here to the proud but rather pompous performance at the Royal School.
The show at Yeguda de la Cartuja was more fun. The opening action took my breath away and I will not reveal how the horses enter the auditorium as that would spoil the excitement for you. Wandering around the grounds there were no apparent restricted areas and the staff were as friendly as the horses.
I’m not sure I was supposed to be watching a breeding process taking place in the grounds outside the stables, but even this well supervised mating process was not kept away from the public eye.
It took a little while to find the Yeguda de la Cartuja centre, despite it being fairly close to the motorway network outside Jerez. But find it you must.
Fair Horses
Granada is a city with many splendid attractions to while away a day. The feria in Granada always takes place sixty days after Easter. That meant that this year it took place later in the year than usual. As a consequence the horses and riders were hotter than usual. The horses are provided with a large well of water by local veterinarians and I saw living proof that you can indeed take a horse to water and make it drink. Not that they required much persuasion in temperatures reaching 40 celsius.
It’s great to get so up close and personal with the Andalusian horse. To see their tack, tails and colourful adornments. It is fascinating to compare items such as stirrups and saddles with the horses you may be used to seeing or riding in northern Europe.
You will also be able to see these horses at ferias in locations such as Malaga, Seville and Cordoba. And the annual Romería del Rocio is another occasion when you can see them at work.
Have horse, will travel
Family day out
Later in the year, in October, there is a splendid show in Granada. It is called Concab and it takes place over a few days on the outskirts of the city.
I have been to this show every year for the past five years. Riders who were little more than children when I first saw them perform in the arena, are now all grown up.
Again you can wander the stables outside and pat the horses – if they let you. As with the summer feria, you will see horses that have been brought to the show from far and wide in Spain. Not just from Andalusia itself. Study the addresses on the horseboxes. You will see how far proud owners of these very special horses are willing to drive in order to show off their animals.
Horses compete for rosettes and prizes and, on the Sunday, the show culminates in a wonderful show where horses and flamenco dancers perform together. It is a well practiced show and to see humans and horses interact in dance is a joy.
Sand in your horseshoes
One of the best displays I have seen from an Andalusian horse was by chance. I on my way to stay for a few days in Sanlúcar de Barrameda. I wanted to see the famous horse racing on the beach that takes place there every August.
South of the distinctive town of Tarifa, where riding the wave is more common than riding a horse; I saw in a field a beautiful white Andalusian horse lifting its feet, pointing its toes and prancing around its grounds as though it was performing in front of an audience. There was nobody else in sight. There was no owner encouraging it to do what comes naturally to these horses. It was simply showing off. Like Andalusian horses like to do.
Racing horses, Sanlucar de Barrameda
Of course the horses racing on the beach in Sanlúcar de Barrameda are not usually of the same breed as the Andalusian showhorses. These are horses that will never win the Epsom Derby, but they are more used to running at speed.
This very different tourist attraction first took place in 1845 and it is wonderful to see large crowds attracted to the beach each evening. Watching horse racing on a beach as the sun set, was pretty special.
This year the racing on the beach takes place between August 10-12th and again between August 25-27th.
Regardless of what time of the year you visit Spain, do look out for the Andalusian thoroughbred horse.
You might see it on the road, in a field or performing to a high level at a show.
You don’t have to come from a background steeped in all things equine to appreciate these creatures. You don’t even have to have sat on a horse to be in awe of them.
So many aspects of life in Spain have changed considerably in years gone by. Thank heavens that the ever graceful Andalusian horse is as magnificent today as it has ever been.
