So you want to rent a property, or live full time, in a peaceful and tranquil part of Spain. You would like a vast expanse of water close by, but not seaside crowds. You want to look upon clear turquoise waters, whatever the weather.
Why not try lake living? I undertook a road trip that took in just a handful of the many lakes in Spain. Those staying or living near a lake were very positive about the benefits of lake living. Even when the blue waters were shrouded in fog or low cloud, I could see what they were talking about.
The lakes of Spain remind me of autumn mornings in the English Lake District.
And here is why.
Lake View
Lake at El Chorro
I visited the popular area around El Chorro on a particularly moody, atmospheric and foggy day. Standing there for just five minutes I saw the fog descend upon the mountains that make up Garganta del Chorro.
This is Malaga’s very own Lake District; three artificial lakes created by a dam built across the dramatic 200 metre high Guadalhorce river gorge. The Garganta del Chorro is actually 5kms in length.
King Alfonso XIII opened the dam in 1921 and was among the first people to walk across the catwalk that is some 100 metres above the river. Known as the “Camino del Rey” (the King’s path) it has been closed for over 15 years. It seems too many parents ignored the warning signs and allowed their children to play close to the edge. There are plans to renovate the bridge and once again open up the catwalk to the public. Officials confirm this will only happen if safety can be guaranteed.
Fast track
El Chorro Railway Station
People still do walk across the distinctive railway bridge – made famous in the film Von Ryan’s Express – close to the quaint village railway station. Many country properties here have not only views of the mountains of El Chorro, but also of the relatively new high speed railway line that links Malaga to Madrid
There are a few houses alongside the lakes, but it is very rare that any of them come up for sale.
A four wheel vehicle is ideal for exploring this area. Michael Rinjhart took me out in his and told me about the popularity of the area.
He said: “El Chorro is a paradise for walkers, horseriders, paragliders, photographers and climbers, like me. It is always busy at the weekends when people living on the coast come inland to have lunch with a view of El Chorro. Children play by the lakes and there are some small sand beaches there also.”
Even on a day when low cloud, rain and fog envelop El Chorro; it is a very impressive sight.
Village people
Bridge at El Chorro
The busy town of Alora is a short distance from the natural park that El Chorro dominates. Alora is famous for the production of castanets, as one would expect from somewhere believed to be the birthplace of Malagueño flamenco.
As with the nearby mountain range, Alora is not for the faint hearted. The cobbled streets are steep. Lined with lemon trees they lead you up to the impressive seventeenth century church of La Encarnación, which dominates the town.
When renting property here you have a clear choice. Rent a property close to the town of Alora. Or you could rent a romantic hideaway in the mountains. Then sit back and enjoy the view.
A short drive out of town in the direction of El Chorro and you come across the rugged, unspoilt Valle de Abdalajis. Though surrounded by some uncompromising industry, this seems to be the ideal place to live if you want to be equal distance between town and country.
The chances are that if you want an unspoilt view of this beautiful area, then you will likely have to drive down a hill and back up again each time you run out of milk. The alternative would be to purchase a goat or two. They are in plentiful supply here.
Campillos has to be one of the most underrated towns in Spain. Located north west of its more famous neighbour, the religious city of Antequera; Campillos is a smart town that is perfectly situated to be your base camp for that day out trip to El Chorro, a place sure to impress at any time of the year.
When is a lake not a lake?
Man made Lake Beznar
The same sentiment applies to Lake Beznar, which is located in the gorgeous Lecrín Valley, south of Granada. Underneath the water is the original village of Beznar, now long lost and replaced by a surprisingly quiet hamlet that is close to the motorway that links the cities of Granada and Motril.
But, it seems, a lake is not always what it seems. A friend, the Spanish culinary historian and author Luis Benavides Barajas, corrected me by saying that Lake Beznar is “not a lake, it is a man made reservoir. An embalse. You should not call it a lake. The two are different.”
Well, as a famous footballer once to me when being encouraged to appreciate the grandeur of Niagara Falls; “it’s just a big heap of water.”
Lake Beznar is being improved. The local authority have invested in a new picnic and fitness area. Big plans are afoot for regular sailing events. Right now it is a tranquil place to walk, sunbathe or fish.
Loving Lakes
Lake Negratin
The first time I saw Lake Negratin near Baza, I stopped the car and took time to stand and wonder. It is beautiful. It has since become one of my favourite places to visit that is within easy reach of the great city of Granada.
At Lake Negratin I sample the warm waters of the outdoor thermal pool that overlooks the vast expanse of water. Many of those enjoying the recuperative waters were local British residents. Some of whom are very happy living in cool cave houses located close to the lake.
Lake Iznajar is busier but none the worse for that. Just 25 kilometres off the A92 Granada to Seville motorway, the town of Iznajar is home to six thousand inhabitants and was transformed some years ago by the creation of an ‘embalse’, or reservoir. In effect Iznajar has a waterfront, overlooking an inland sea some thirty kilometres long and you can rent a cottage with a stunning view of Lake Iznajar
Calming waters
Torquoise waters
There are many options when it comes to admiring lakes in Spain. The Embalse de la Vinuela is twenty minutes north of Velez Malaga. Known as Lake Vinuela it is, strictly speaking, a reservoir. It boasts a large dam at the lower end.
Meanwhile, the picturesque Lake Bermejales is not far from the historic town of Alhama de Granada In an excellent tapas bar there I met David Allen, who lives close to the lake. He has been an angler since he was a child.
He told me: “I never wanted to live on the coast but I did want to be near water. It is the most soothing view of all. I am a great believer that all your troubles can be put into perspective simply by standing in front of a Spanish lake, soaking in the scenery and taking deep breaths of fresh air. For much of the year the only people I see around the lake are fellow anglers.”
The largest lake in all of Spain surrounds the birthplace of my friend, the aforementioned author Luis Benavides Barajas.
Sanabria in Zamora covers an area of 370 hectares – that’s over 200 hectares bigger than its nearest rival, the lake at Banyoles in the province of Girona.
Sanabria is 51 metres deep, so there is no disputing that this is the biggest natural lake in Spain. Located in a mountainous area close to the border with Portugal, it was a place where the enemies of General Franco hid.
There are still some people hiding out near lakes all over Spain. But they are not on the run from a dictator. They are the ones who have chosen an altogether more peaceful carry on.
They have turned their backs on the seaside in favour of a lake view.
And I for one don’t blame them.
You forgot our Lake Los bermejales….look at the pics on our website!
We have two rentals appartments at first line from the Lake….brend new,we start this year,Hostalito La Yesera,you are welcome!
Thanks for the comments Christina. Los Bermejales is, indeed, a beautiful place – http://www.spain-holiday.com/rentals/accommodations/properties/10381/Arenas+del+Rey/3/Granada/0/Andalucia/Arenas+del+Rey.html
Could never forget Lake Bermejales Christina. I mentioned it in the 8th paragraph from the end of the feature. It’s one of my favourite lakes in Spain. Enjoy!
Vernon,John…it was a picture I missed….:-) Thank you for your responds,have a great summer!