Lent in Spain

February 22nd, 2012

Did you all have a flipping good time making pancakes yesterday?  The traditional Shrove Tuesday pancakes, or crepes, are delicious anytime and often served in Spain as a snack as well as a dessert, with various toppings both sweet and savoury.

Today of course is Ash Wednesday, and the start of the season of Lent observed by the whole Catholic world, who in turn make up most of the Spanish population. The prelude to Easter - Semana Santa-  the biggest and most celebrated festival here, and worth booking ahead  in advance.

Abstaining or virtuous?

As a child, it was easy – you just gave up sweets and watched them pile up in a box ready to make you feel ill on Easter Sunday, combined with all that chocolate!

Catholics generally abstain from something or other for the 40 days and 40 nights of Lent, or try and add a virtue or two to their lives…not always with success!  The Church used to forbid eating meat, then relaxed it to Friday´s , but nowadays that really just counts for Ash Wednesday and Good Friday, but a fish –  only diet is a pretty easy thing to follow here in Spain.

It’s not really a hardship to choose fish over meat any day of the week here, with the enormous choice of fresh seafood and delicious bounty on every coastline.

A mixed platter for two!

Something Fishy?

Spending time in Galicia? Then you’re in for a treat as the whole area is renowned the world over for the stunning array of seafood caught daily – just try out any restaurant or stand on any dock and watch the masters at work.

Families for generations have farmed shellfish such as:

  • Mussels
  • Scallops
  • Oysters
  • Prawns

The Rias – or estuaries – are famed for their river fish:

  • Trout
  • Salmon
  • Eel

The surrounding coast and fishing boats far out to sea return with:

  • Sea Bass
  • Sardines
  • Hake
  • Turbot
  • Sole

These and other fish are served simply on the plancha with a squeeze of lemon juice, in luxurious sauces and even in pies – empanadas – for you to try. Choose a place to stay and suffer this meat free diet in Galicia from this range of holiday rentalspoor you, how will you cope?!

The green coastline of Galicia

Semana Santa

What about Easter Week itself?

Are you going to eat your chocolate egg in the drizzle of home, or would you prefer something more dramatic?

Then head to the south of Spain where Semana Santa is celebrated in style.  Andalucía is known for Easter celebrations throughout the world, and you can read all about the traditions and their explanations in this great post by clicking here.

Whether you come as a pilgrim and want to partake in the religious celebrations, or simply as an observer –  then you cannot fail to be caught up in the sheer drama and magic of the processions and the sentiment.  The mood is solemn, the heavily decorated – and heavy! – floats are carried by the different brotherhoods, identifiable only by the different colours of their robes.

It’s all about more than men in pointy hats and definitely is an experience that everyone should have at least once.

The brotherhood at work!

What are the dates?

It´s a movable feast, and this year, Easter is early – so remember to book ahead, in fact, take a coffee break and have a look at the wonderful selection of availability on the Spain Holiday site now…

The dates for your diary for 2012 are as follows:

  • Viernes de Dolores March 30th
  • Sábado de Pasión March 31st
  • Domingo de Ramos or Palm Sunday April 1st
  • Lunes Santo or Holy Monday April 2nd
  • Martes Santo April 3rd
  • Miércoles Santo April 4th
  • Jueves Santo April 5th
  • Viernes Santo or Good Friday April 6th
  • Sabado de Gloria April 7th
  • Domingo de la Resurrección or Easter Sunday April 8th

Easter procession in Puente Genil

The best places to go?

The biggest  – and inarguably the best -  shows are performed in Seville, Malaga, and any of the larger cities and towns – but even the tiniest village will take part in their own solemn procession.  Our village in the Alpujarras is home to barely 200 people but the whole village, children and elders will partake…

Hotels will be booked out for months in advance – but who needs an impersonal hotel? Choose instead your own Easter retreat from this selection of holiday home from homes in Seville or Malaga.

 

The fish fest  of Lent will then come to an end even if is just temporary, and the traditional meal eaten at Easter is much the same as anywhere in the rest of the world.  Roast lamb – Cordero Asado -  slowly roasted here in Spain with whole cloves of garlic and olive oil, accompanied by green beans from the Huerta, with a seasonal fresh salad….and another great excuse to get the whole family together from near and far…they do like a get  – together and a party here!

 

Carol Byrne
Posted by Carol Byrne
Originally from Dublin, Carol has also lived in London and Wales before settling in Spain with her husband and family in 2006. She blogs about traditional village life, sparked by a passion for the culture and history of Spain, and teaches English at the local school.