There is a point on the A92 motorway, where the provinces of Granada and Malaga meet, at which those who are scared of heights look elsewhere. They avert their eyesight from the marvellous view of the city of Loja that lays beneath them. Way beneath them. Loja, and neighbouring Riofrio, are locations overlooked by too many people. Loja is the city of water. Riofrio the hamlet of the trout. Each are worth visiting.
The highs of Loja
View from Mirador de Loja
Loja, known as the city of water, is now a mixture of the old and new. But it is the ancient you should be exploring. On foot, of course. Because, as in so often the way in Spain, the most interesting bits are up steep hills where it would be unwise to drive. I know someone who tried that once. I think he is still stuck there.
It is at best an oversight, at worst crazy, that more people don’t spend a day in Loja. Better still, take time out and stay here in a country house with great views or a villa with a pool set against a backdrop of dramatic mountains.
The city has an important place in the history of Spain. The Moors used its prominent fortifications when defending against the invasion of the marauding armies in the late 15th century. Loja was a crucial place to conquer for the invading King Ferdinand II and Queen Isabella as they set about marching on nearby Granada – a city which itself must be seen by all.
Climb up to the highest points of Loja and explore the tower and walls of the former Islamic Alcazaba. In Plaza de la Constitución there is a good museum reliving the lively history of Loja.
Holy Loja
Loja Church
On your walking tour be sure to find the mirador, or viewing point, at the top of old Loja. You access it by walking past some of the older housing in town. From the mirador you can take in the splendid scenery which, for those still on the motorway with the pedal to the mettle, is ironically both overlooked and yet missed. They are driving too fast to take in the splendour.
Churches are plentiful in Spain and many are built on the site of former mosques. Loja is home to a particularly chunky church. The Iglesia de Santa Maria de la Encarnación is a must visit. The church combines Mudejar, gothic and neo-classical characteristics. It has a stand out Belfry and is home to many treasures, including the very silver cross that was handed over by Isabella the Catholic.
It is no surprise, therefore, that the Holy Week of Semana Santa at Easter is celebrated with much gusto in Loja. If you want to experience Easter in Spain, but wish to avoid the huge crowds in cities such as Malaga and Granada, then you would do well to experience Semana Santa in Loja.
The city is big on fiestas. February brings with it Carnaval de Loja, during which the procession of elaborately dressed and masked participants has to be seen to be believed.
Cold River, Mountain High
Riofrio
A much more tranquil and peaceful destination is the nearby hamlet of Riofrio. The tourists found Riofrio long ago. Mainly Spanish tourists who arrive on their coaches from all over the country with one thing in mind. Trout.
The clear and cold waters of Riofrio are home to Rainbow and Brown trout, which are an enjoyable and popular part of the Mediterranean diet. The place depends on the export of both trout and sturgeon, for Riofrio is also famous for its caviar.
You can catch your own fish in the local river or, as the majority do, purchase trout from one of the local trout farms or excellent restaurants in Riofrio. Floods in recent years have played havoc with the business of trout farming and have severely damaged the local export and tourist trade. But Riofrio is fighting back. Flood defences have been improved. Money has been spent to try and ensure heavy rains do not again cause havoc in Riofrio.
Popular restaurants such as La Quintana were destroyed in the floods, but I’m pleased to say that they are now back in business. Serving trout as a main course in a variety of ways, including Truchas Rellenas de Jamón, which sees the trout stuffed with ham.
Cooking up a treat
River at Riofrio
This area is a culinary corner of Spain. Many a Spanish TV cooking programmes has been filmed at the Hotel Almazara, which overlooks Riofrio. If you want to eat in a more simple fashion, then there are many beautiful spots where you can simply pull up a picnic table and eat your own food. With a backdrop noise of the clear running waters of Riofrio. Somehow you can hardly hear the neighbouring motorway.
Look up and you will witness some humans practising their flying skills. Hang gliders use the highest point of the Sierra de Loja, at 1.671 metres, as a spot from which to begin their aerial journey of the locality. It must look spectacular from up there.
I prefer to keep my feet on the ground, thank you very much. I shall continue to explore Loja, its highs and lows, and neighbouring Riofrio, at different times of the year, from the safety of terra firma.
I strongly urge you do the same.
This whole area, known as the Poniente Granadino, is an undiscovered area of traditional white villages, rural calm, empty roads and breathtaking scenery.
North of Loja is the fabulous little village of Algarinejo, rich with rural history and with a gentle peace that belies the fact that it has one of the best restaurants in Granada province, Casa Piolas.
The area has rivers, mountains, valleys, olive trees (of course !) all combined with a restful tranquility that makes for a great holiday away from a hectic life elsewhere.
There are some great little cottages and houses to rent in the area which can provide a good base to explore the delights of Granada, Malaga and Cordoba, all of which are an easy drive away. There is even Iznajar lake a few minutes away if you want to be torn away from your private pool.
The Poniente Granadino area provides a stark contrast with the busy coastal resorts and “established” inland destinations and can offer a “chill out” break for discerning holidaymakers.