Lorca in southern Spain has been in the headlines recently and for all the wrong reasons.
The catastrophic earthquake there resulted in deaths and serious injuries. It left thousands homeless and destroyed buildings old and new. Lorca was, is and will again be a place worth visiting.
Indeed, before that tragic day, Lorca was my starting point on a journey through the region of Murcia that led me to eventually to its marvellous capital city.
Lorca will rise again
Lorca Castle
I walked around Lorca’s most ancient streets and admired its castle, churches and oldest houses. Many of those have now fallen to the ground due to the worst earthquake in Spain for fifty years. It’s such a shame that so much of ancient Lorca has been turned to rubble, but Prime Minister Zapatero has promised to rebuild Lorca and strengthen the construction of all buildings.
The region of Murcia has come together to help the people of Lorca. That is so typical of an area that is among the most united of any area I have visited in Spain. Murcian people are strong, proud and friendly. And, having seen so much of Murcia, I understand why.
Variety the spice of Murcia
Mar Menor
The region of Murcia as a whole is more international. It covers some 11,000 square kilometres of land. It is as varied as it is large.
Go bird watching in Mar Menor and you are in Murcia. Play golf at the world famous La Manga and, yes, you are in Murcia. The La Manga Club is not the sole preserve of footballers. Anyone can stay at La Manga Club.
Go walking in the countryside of the Sierra de Espuna and you are in the most beautiful part of the region. It is easy to forget that you are in an area that is largely known only for its warm winters. Murcia has a great deal more to offer.
After first renting in the coastal town of Aguilas, Bill Grimward moved there ten years ago and loves the region. A keen angler he can often be found on one of the more than 200 beaches in Murcia.
He says: “In some areas I have been to in Spain what you see is what you get. By that I mean the place might just be lots of flat farming land. Or mountains will dominate and if, like me, you are not the fittest specimen then you are permanently out of breath walking up those.
“What I like about Murcia as an area is its sheer variety. There is something for everyone here. I spend much of my time fishing in the sea near my home in Aguilas. However, if I wanted to walk in forest I could. If I understood the point of playing golf, then I would be in heaven in Murcia.
“I moved here because I wanted to continue fishing despite suffering from arthritis – an ailment which has been much less of a problem since I left North Yorkshire for this part of Spain.”
Multi cultural Murcia
Coastal Cat
Murcia is famous for its vegetable growing and, of course, if the tomatoes and lettuces are to make it into shops across Europe, someone has to pick them.
The work is too low paid for most Spaniards and therefore immigrants, often from South America, move to Murcia. This ensures that places like Lorca, Fuente Alamo and Aguilas are home to many nationalities.
Moratalla
Meanwhile, in Calasparra, rice is the driving force of local business.
Not just any ordinary rice, but the first in the world to have been awarded a “Denominacion de Origen” – a guarantee of top quality.
It is one of the more historic places in Murcia. Above the town you can appreciate the surrounding countryside from viewing areas at Las Lomas de la Virgen.
Caravaca de la Cruz is a medieval town that is one of only five places in the world to be nominated as a Holy City. It is therefore allowed to celebrate the perpetual jubilee once every seven years. The castle was built in the 15th century by the Knights Templar and is surrounded by fascinating narrow streets. Leave your car outside the town, wander and admire the ancient beauty of the place.
Caravaca de la Cruz
Yecla is the northern most town in Murcia and is famous for its wine production. Live here and you might want to buy in plenty of the local produce. That is not a problem in another wine growing location. Jumilla produces many fine rose and red wines and the town has numerous bodegas and wine shops that are popular with coach parties. Inevitably at fiesta time the wine flows freely. I timed my visit there well and I shall be writing about the wine of Murcia here very soon.
If you travel from inland Murcia towards Mar Menor and the Costa Calida coast, be sure to visit Santiago de la Ribera. San Pedro del Pinatar is another location I would like to have stayed in for longer. They are predominantly Spanish towns. They each have some of the nicest seafood restaurants in the area. You may have to share your lunch with the army of cats that live among the boats.
Down on the beach
Coastal Murcia
Where the Mar Menor meets the Costa Calida (warm coast) you can stay in Puerto de Mazarrón.
This is where both resident expats and local Spanish people head for a spot of sunbathing.
Betty Percy takes her visiting grandchild there. She says: “Isabella enjoys going on the beach and I like the town. It also helps that my favourite Chinese restaurant is in Mazarron.”
Betty and her husband, Tom, drive there regularly from their inland home near Fuente Alamo.
She says: “When we started looking in Spain, Fuente Alamo and the surrounding villages were more Spanish than those on the Costa Blanca. Today there are some English shops and bars.”
There are some peaceful hamlets close to Fuente Alamo. In places such as Las Palas you can be within 30 minutes of the coast at Mar Menor, and yet still close to the motorway network that will take you to the fine city of Alicante and the picturesque town of Moraira.
Always the bride
Merry Murcia
Cartagena, home to the largest naval base in Spain, is also changing – but for the better. For so long an uncompromising industrial City, the tourist penny has dropped and Cartagena is receiving a facelift. Trendy restaurants are opening along the seafront attracting a new crowd along with homebuyers who cannot afford to buy in the city of Murcia.
My journey around this unique region ends up in the City or Murcia itself. I am just in time to witness a double wedding at the impressive cathedral. There is much kissing, popping of Cava corks and even a live band of costumed minstrels who serenade bride, groom, guests and passing shoppers.
Many Spaniards believe that the best way to judge the style of a Spanish City is by attending a wedding there. They advice British onlookers to see how well dressed the guests are. If the wedding is a classy affair, they say, then the City in which it takes place will also be tasteful and wealthy.
The bells are ringing
Wedding fever in Murcia
If we take the advice literally, then Murcia is clearly a prosperous and fashionable city. From the wedding at the famous cathedral down to the more basic nuptials at a local registry office, smart attire for the men and stunning dresses for the ladies were readily on display.
Murcia does not boast a large city centre but what it lacks in size it more than makes up for in appearance. It is cleaner than many of its Spanish counterparts. It has some striking buildings, all located within walking distance of each other. It also has some of the smartest looking shops.
The centre is dominated by Cathedral de Santa Mari. Finished in the 15th century it is the most impressive monument in the region. The city is divided by the Segura River and is also known for the Almudi Palace and the Arab castle of Monteagudo.
The Museum, Ramon Gaya, is dedicated to the artist of the same name. He was a native of Murcia. The building, in Catalina Square, also includes the work of other artists such as Vazquez and Rembrandt, who heavily influenced Gaya.
Murcia city centre
There are many words that may be used to describe Murcia as a whole. Warm, naturally. Welcoming, definitely. Varied, certainly.
And defiant. The good people of Murcia as a whole, and Lorca in particular, will bounce back from the earthquake disaster.
Javier Jimenez, a local chef, tells me: “We people of Lorca will unite and rebuild our town. We have never been more proud to be from Murcia.”
