It came as no surprise to anyone living in Spain that recent events at Westminster Abbey were watched by millions of TV viewers in Spain. They are mad about royalty here. They adore their own royal family.
I witnessed this when Prince Felipe and Princess Letizia were the first members of the Spanish royal family to visit the coastal city of Motril in September 2006.
The good people of Motril are very proud of their town and of the royal family. They came out in there thousands to greet the royal couple.
Royal Motril
Prince and Princess of Asturias visit Motril
The visit of the Prince and Princess of Asturias coincided with the announcement that the princess, Letizia, was then pregnant with her second child, Sofia. Her husband Prince Felipe wore a white naval uniform. They flew in to Motril harbour by helicopter and were there to christen a frigate into the Spanish navy.
As is customary on such occasions, the princess – a former television presenter – wore a traditional black lace dress, black mantilla and peineta on her head. A crowd of over three thousand locals relished the moment.
If the Royal couple had known what I know, they would have taken longer to look around Motril and discover its often hidden delights.
Pass the Port
Reaching out to Motril
Motril port is not the prettiest in Spain, but it remains one of the busiest. And that is sure to continue as an expensive programme of development to the port is very much a work in progress. The existing harbour will be extended and modernised. A new Marina is planned and that is just the beginning of big changes coming the way of Motril, a town that when it comes to tourism at least, has always been looked upon as the poor relation of the more famous resorts along the Costa Tropical.
One of the biggest developments in the whole of Andalusia will see two million square metres of land in Motril transformed. Despite the present state of the economy, there are still plans to build two and a half thousand new homes there. New hotels and apartments will sit alongside a large shopping centre. The existing golf course at Playa Granada will be extended by twenty per cent.
Sweet Motril
Colourful Motril
At present the very industrial Motril is the largest town along the Costa Tropical and that looks certain to remain the case.
Its 60.000 inhabitants live there, separated from its beaches by just two kilometres. Sitting between the coast and the town centre is a wide sweep of farming land and sugar cane. Garden centres, selling plants that can only survive in such a sub tropical climate, line the main road that dissects the town from its beaches. The last sugar cane factory in the area closed a few years ago and, sadly, many productive Cherimoya trees have had to make way in the name of progress.
Beach View
A bar on the beach
The beaches of Motril are called Playa Poniente and Playa Granada. They are peppered with many a delightful chirinquito where you can eat lunch on the beach. If you only want a stiff drink, then the very trendy bar, Sumo, is the best place to watch a perfect sunset.
You can still park you car outside the restaurants and bars that are on the beach. Restaurants serve freshly caught fish that has been landed at the nearby fish market. Do experience sales time at the fish market. Its loud, its atmospheric, its day to day Spain.
Sit on the beach and, should you for some unknown reason get bored of the sea view; simply turn your chair around and marvel at the view of the Sierra Nevada mountains.
Sun & Snow
Sailing by
Last January it was possible to sunbathe on the beach in temperatures of 25 degrees celsius while, at the same time, admire the snow capped mountains that play home to the most southerly ski resort in Europe, Sierra Nevada. Yes it is a cliche but, as with most cliches, it remains true that you really can ski in the morning and sunbathe on the beaches of Motril in the afternoon. Many people do just that.
Motril is the most traditionally Spanish town along this stretch of coastline.
Steeped in history the town has many fine ancient buildings. Located at a major road junction in the centre of Motril is the most splendid, La Virgen de la Cabeza. Visit the luscious gardens, the park and go on a nature walk around the building that offers panoramic views, not just of the busy town, but also of the port and the coastline.
Par for the Course
Tropical Motril
Other notable buildings that have played a significant part in the history of Motril include the Iglesia Mayor de la Encarnacion, which was completed in 1514. A street or two away, in Camino de las Cañas, is the pretty Iglesia del Carmen which is actually two churches built side by side but constructed a century apart.
In much more recent times there has been a clear divide between new and old Motril. Those who enjoy walking around Motril’s excellent modern shops often overlook or simply miss the oldest part of the town, located close to the football ground. Up here, and in the area close to the old fashioned bus station, are some of the best tapas bars in Motril.
The newest housing in Motril is located down by the beach at Playa Granada, where modern apartments can be rented. They come in all sizes and colours and surround the golf course and many have sea views. Once again, despite a general dip in the Spanish property market, they continue to build new apartments close to the beach.
Fit for a King
Playa Granada
Some people escape the colder winters in the city of Granada, a great weekend destination, by spending weeks at the Motril campsites that are slightly set back from the sea.
One property located on the beach at Motril has always stood out. Behind high walls is Villa Astrida. It was once the home of the former King of Belgium, Baudoin, who died in the house eighteen years ago and it still belongs to Belgium. The villa is surrounded by sub tropical gardens that are so prevalent along this stretch of coastline.
The more typical type of property in the old part of town is a terraced cottage historically popular with local sailors. Above the shops in town are many high rise apartments. Towards the rear of the town newer homes are located off a minor road that climbs its way out of Motril, inland through pine forests in the direction of Granada.
On the coast there are other overlooked resorts close to Motril. Travel east for three kilometres and you arrive in Torrenueva.
Not to be missed
Torrenueva scores highly
For the residents here a new stretch of motorway cannot come quickly enough. It will bypass a town that is plagued by traffic congestion at the height of summer. Torrenueva is undeniably slightly shabby in its appearance. However, it is a very Spanish seaside resort. It is far removed from its more famous neighbours. The beaches at Torrenueva are wide and much quieter than those further west at the popular towns of Almuñécar, Salobreña and La Herradura.
Travel further east from Motril, in the direction of Almeria, and you will come to the altogether quieter Carchuna, where you can rent close to some hidden bays.
It is the all year round tropical like outside temperatures that convince many people to buy or rent property along the Costa Tropical. It does have a unique climate within Europe.
Like its beaches, Motril is big. But, make no mistake about it, there is room for everyone.
And that includes members of the royal family.
