My first holiday to Spain was in 1976. Being a teenager it was, of course, to Benidorm. If my memory serves me correctly, a fun time was had by all.
In more recent years I have driven right on by Benidorm. Older and wiser I know that there are other locations on the Costa Blanca that are less built up and which allow me to enjoy this coastline as it used to be before mass tourism arrived in Spain.
Denia has to be one such favourite.
Doing Denia
Colourful Denia
But I didn’t know that back in 1976. When all I cared about was that, being a member of the so called ‘Maggie May’ generation; my Rod Stewart haircut was just so. That my trousers would not be a victim of sun lotion, sand, paella or worse. And that my mum didn’t discover I was on holiday with “Glenys the menace” rather than best mate Paul. Poor chap. He had to go into hiding for a week!
I well recall staying in the latterly infamous Hotel Presidente. An establishment able to serve me copious amounts of my then favourite tipple, Southern Comfort and lemonade. The sea was a no go area. I couldn’t and didn’t swim then and that’s not changed. Though, thankfully, my taste buds have. I dread to think what I ate in Benidorm in the mid seventies, but I fear little of it will have been typically Spanish and there wasn’t the choice of places to rent that are available to holidaymakers today.
Men only lunch in Denia
Thirty years on, did I then appreciate the amazing skies that I saw over Benidorm at sunset only five years ago? I doubt it. Did I get on a coach to appreciate how much more Alicante has to it than an airport? Unlikely.
And did I dare to stray further than the hotel bar and go north of Benidorm to the towns and villages of the Marina Alta? No, I’m sorry, I did not.
Had I done so I would then have come across a vastly different Spain from that experienced in Benidorm. Indeed, I would have had the privilege of witnessing places such as Denia before they themselves became popular tourist destinations.
I have more recently caught a glimpse of what I missed out on back in the day when the peseta ruled supreme and Glenys only had eyes for me. I have travelled along this stretch of coastline travelling slowly towards the third largest city in Spain, vibrant Valencia.
Costa Blanca – then and now
Wandering Denia backstreets
I feel sure Denia looks much different today than it did in 1976 but it has largely turned its back on high rise apartments and, as a result, is the prettiest town on this stretch of coast. It is the capital of Marina Alta and is midway between the two international airports of Valencia and Alicante.
Despite first becoming popular with British tourists and house buyers in the 70’s; it has managed to retain an authentic charm. Shops located in very old buildings sit happily side by side with more modern stores.
And Denia has some of the prettiest old housing to be seen anywhere. Just wander through the avenues and alleyways behind the coastal front row, and you will get a feel for the history of the place. Denia is rich in history.
Today it is a popular stop off point for day trippers from Alicante and Benidorm. A ferry to Ibiza is popular all year around and from Denia it is possible to sail to Palma de Mallorca. It also has one of the largest choices of rental property on the Costa Blanca.
Founded as a Greek colony Denia is dominated by its vast castle, itself a former Arab fortress. This was a very important Arab run town between 711 and 1242. Today it is a vibrant part of the Spanish tourism industry. With 20 kilometres of seafront, Denia has room for everyone even at the height of the summer season.
There is no disputing the fact that Denia has been heavily developed in the past 30 years. However, unlike some of its near neighbours it has remained very much a Spanish town that excepts tourists; rather than a tourist town that houses some Spanish people.
Turning back time
Meal deals in Denia
In recent years there has been an active campaign to turn back the clock and rediscover the charms that originally brought people to the Costa Blanca. After all, they didn’t first head there searching for high rise hotels, bingo and burgers. All that came later.
Long time local resident Barry Storr says the plan to improve the image of the Costa Blanca has worked. Look at it now via this high definition video.
Barry told me: “The Costa Blanca as a whole is still popular. It is sad that Benidorm is still thought of in a bad way. My view is that it wasn’t just British lads who misbehaved on this coast all those years ago and yet it was only they who got the bad publicity. I think all that is in the past. The Costa Blanca is now seen in a more positive light and there seems to be more optimism around.”
David Cooke bought a holiday home there ten years ago and believes the town remains attractive. He says: “It is true that many British people such as myself have moved here in the past few years. I happen to believe that we have given the place a new lease of life. The Spanish do not appear to resent our presence. I know many Brits have moved here from areas where they have not been accepted, or have had legal battles over land. They much prefer life in Denia.”
And Denia is not alone locally in attracting holidaymakers and homeowners to the Costa Blanca.
Lunchtime at Javier harbour
Javea is divided into three very different areas. Each section of which is 2km from the other but buses run visitors between the three distinctive areas. The older part of town retains its Spanish character and is a joy to walk around. If it is museums and historic buildings you seek, then look no further.
The harbour is a busy area where, predictably, the best fish restaurants can be found and it also plays home to some individual shops. The area best known by holidaymakers is Arenal, a long stretch of beach and bars that lacks character but is where homes can be rented at competitive prices even in high season.
Less well known is the pretty town of Moraira. Once a basic fishing port it has transformed into a smart and thriving coastal hideaway.
Moraira
Barry Storr lives in a two bedroom apartment in the centre of town. The former Humberside police officer says: “Moraira still has the feel of a village about it. Although it has grown over the years it still feels Spanish. Most of the commercial side is Spanish and we feel part of the place. Wherever you go people acknowledge you. The place has a warmth of feeling and is very welcoming. When we have been away and then drive back down the valley road from Benitachell, the area seems to give you a hug and say ‘welcome home’. I have not found this feeling elsewhere.”
Nearby is the ever popular Calpe, an area dominated by the Peñon de Ifach. The Moors called this the northern rock. It juts out from the sea and is connected to the beach by an isthmus. The limestone mass penetrates one kilometre into the sea and is the highest rock in the Mediterranean. A nature reserve for almost twenty years it boasts a rich array of flora and fauna.
The Penon dominates the view of this part of the coastline and experienced climbers venture to the top where, from over 300 metres, they enjoy some of the best views available in the region.
Relax like an elephant
Another popular view in the area is that of the Montgo mountain. Locals call it the elephant as from certain angles it truly resembles such an animal laying down for a rest.
Montgo the elephant
Many people come to the Costa Blanca for exactly that reason. To relax. Be it for a short holiday, a winter long stay or to retire. Indeed, for many years, it had a reputation for being one big retirement home for the ageing or infirm. The climate is ideal for those suffering from ailments such as arthritis.
Chris Derrett has lived on the Costa Blanca for many years. He says: “It does not surprise me that the Costa Blanca remains a popular choice for those retiring. It has the best all year round weather, wonderful beaches inland mountainous scenery and fabulous new tournament golf courses.”
But it would be very wrong to categorize this area as one only for the members of SAGA. In the same way it would be inaccurate to suggest that Benidorm is still the preserve of rowdy young men and women.
Something for everyone
The truth is that today the Costa Blanca accommodates all ages, side by side, and without any problems. Young and old continue to flock there. The one thing they have in common is a love of a coastline where what you see is what you get and where all tastes are catered for.
Costa Blanca attracts all ages
You want food more associated with your country of birth, then you’ll find it. You want to eat some of the best seafood cooked anywhere in Spain? Then you have arrived in the right place. And, with the birthplace of the national dish just up the coast, if you want to sample perfect Paella, that too is possible. Just make sure it’s not one of those pre-prepared frozen models so favoured by the more tourist orientated cafes.
I am not sure where teenage boys go on their first foreign holiday these days. Probably somewhere more exotic than Benidorm. I don’t know if they go with their secret girlfriend or with their mates.
But if I could turn back time I wouldd be happy to live that first Spanish holiday all over again.
Though I would definitely change my taste in clothes.
