Not really what you might expect to find inside a Cathedral, but it’s all here for you in Burgos, the cradle of Old Castile. The boisterous frog filled river Arlanzón and the Kingdom of Castile have a few surprises for you….
Along with a grinning devil, some fool’s gold, a moor named Ximena, a visit to this, one of Spain’s Gothic great cathedrals, and a UNESCO world heritage centre – is totally unmissable. Want to know a bit more? Then read on!…..
A fool and his money…
A city born from just a castle back in 884, Burgos is generally regarded today as an aristocratic city, but if like me you loved the epic screenplay with Charlton Heston and you want to get acquainted with El Cid then a visit here – and to the flamboyant Cathedral - is a must.
His tomb is here, together with his Moorish wife, Doña Ximena…and along with his bag of gold, in actuality filled with sand, the old conman used it to secure a fairly large loan from a couple of not so modern day loan sharks! You’ll find that in the Museum just off the cloisters.
Night time fountain in front of Cathedral
Strange, creepy but true!
As clocks go, to find out the time here is spectacularly weird. Across the 106m long nave you will find the Papamoscas is a Devilish character, who jumps out to announce the hour, by opening and closing his mouth - his name means the Fly-catcher…..slighter creepier is a figure crafted entirely from Buffalo hide including real nails and hair and fully dressed in green, meet the Cristo de Burgos…ugh. Idolatry hits a new low!
El Cid
Stairway to Heaven
Diego de Siloé progenitor of the Granada school of scupture was the main man behind the elegant golden staircase that links the nave with the Puerta Alta, a stunning golden renaissance creation that will take your breath away.
Also on a Granada note, the tomb of the High Constable of Castile can also be found here, he is laid to rest alongside his wife (her little dog sleeps at her feet)…his working career included a stint during the Conquest of Granada.
Time for lunch…
No shortage of places to eat out here, at all price levels, a classic Burgales dish might be roast suckling pig, or Castilian snails. Partridge and wild mushroom salad is delicious, along with the usual tapas and tortillas on offer. The surrounding areas are also worthwhile exploring, let’s talk about them another day!
