Picturesque views in Spain can change overnight. So many stretches of the coastline look very different today from how they appeared as recently as ten years ago. But there is one view along the Costa Blanca that has not altered for centuries.
That is the view of the standout Peñon de Ifach. This distinctive landmark has stood erect and proud as it looked upon vast changes along the Costa Blanca.
Rock solid
Penon de Ifach
Its name is believed to have come from the Libyans. “Ifach” in Libyan means ‘ to the North’. The Moors also called this the northern rock.
Archaeological findings have proved that a variety of people and cultures lived at the foot of this unmistakeable Costa Blanca landmark.
The Peñon de Ifach was inhabited in Roman times. The dwellers came down to the isthmus that joins the rock to the mainland. The discovery of pottery, marble, sculptures and coins confirms the belief of historians that its slopes were once again inhabited in the Middle Ages.
Until the late 18th century, pirates ransacked this area on an almost daily basis. However, it was the power of the sea, not the dastardly thieves that forced the inhabitants to retreat to the town of Calpe.
Room with a View
The Peñon belonged to the town of Calpe until 1862, when it passed into private hands. It was bought by the Valencian local government, not long before it was declared a natural park in 1987.
With its 45 hectares of protected land it is one of the smallest natural parks in Europe. Its bio-climatic conditions, the nature of its soil, its location and orientation, all serve to ensure that it has very singular and varied flora and vegetation. Over 300 species of flora can be appreciated, including the exclusive ‘sylene of Ifach’
The Peñon juts out from the sea and is connected to the beach by an isthmus. The limestone mass penetrates one kilometre into the sea and is the highest rock in the Mediterranean.
Since it opened to the public at the beginning of this century it has become possible to reach the top via a tunnel which passes through one of its walls on the North-West face.
As you travel up the rock it is possible to view the remains of an old wall, rebuilt in the XIV Century. The route can be tricky though and only confident walkers should venture on to the uneven ground.
Stuck on you
Caught between a rock and a hard place
The number of visits to the rock is limited at peak times of the year in order to ensure its protection and conservation. Only 50 people per hour can climb the rock at the height of the season.
Most recently a woman got stuck on it for six hours when trying to use the rock as a launch pad for her latest paragliding adventure (pictured above).
The Peñon dominates the view of this part of the coastline and experienced climbers venture to the top where, from over 300 metres, they enjoy some of the best views available in the region. The rock is visible from the nearby perenially popular resort of Benidorm. A location once derided but which has had a new lease of life in recent years. There’s plenty going on for all ages in Benidorm.
View from afar
If climbing is not your thing then how about scuba diving?
At the Peñon de Ifach there are several dive sites from the shallow shore dive at pebble beach to the popular Arches at Los Arcos, and many other sites between the two. The temperature in the water ranges from 27ºC in the summer to 13ºC in the winter.
As the Peñon is a protected area, fish life is abundant all around the Calpe area. At the tip of the Peñon de Ifach there is the Bowl. In this area lots of the larger fish congregate including wrasse, scorpion, conger eels, stingray, grouper and from, every so often, barracuda
Rather than climbing the imposing rock, or diving underneath it, a safer prospect would be to buy or rent a house with a view of the Peñon de Ifach.
Moors, Marinas & Moraira
View from Moraira
One desirable destination on this stretch of coastline is the picturesque location of Moraira. There is development taking place there but, thankfully, it remains a charming place.
Moraira was until about 30 years ago a small fishing village with an old Moorish tower and fishermen’s cottages on the sea front. Then a fine marina was built and the town developed with interesting little shops and some good restaurants. A few apartments have been built in recent years but all the villas in the most sought after area around Moraira are scattered throughout the pine covered hills with wonderful sea views.
Calpe
Not far away is Calpe, in the very diverse area known as Marina Alta. It boasts a mixture of old Valencian culture and modern attractions aimed at tourists. It is a town rich in history and culture. The remains of Iberian tribes have been found around the town and later, the Romans founded a prosperous colony whose main activity was dried, salted fish.
Today Calpe has a marina that sits alongside the old fishing port. From here it is possible to take boat rides around the rock and to Benidorm.
Alternatively you could appreciate the local coastline from the narrow gauge railway that runs from Alicante to Denia, the old town of which is decorated in bold and bright colours. Large murals are eye-catching and there are plenty of quaint, unique shops.
Fishing for compliments
On the rocks
What remains of the Calpe fishing fleet sets sail each morning at five from the harbour at the foot of the Peñon de Ifach.
Less than 30 years ago their catch was still auctioned on the beach. Today it is sold in the quayside auction house, where a public gallery allows visitors to watch the process.
If you want to sample local fish try a traditional mixed fish or octopus stew. Dining out here though is a thoroughly international experience. Visitors are spoilt for choice as food from all over the world is available along the entire coastline.
Catch landed
The shopping is also international. It is possible to shop at a German bakery, buy Scandinavian designer goods and, of course, have a British breakfast in a café. The German residents even have their own annual carnival in February.
The housing market along the Costa Blanca has seen highs and lows over recent years. Today prices remain high when compared to some other regions of Spain and anyone who arrives hoping to purchase on the cheap will have a rude awakening.
And, understandably, you’ll always have to pay a high price for a room with a view as good as that of the Peñon de Ifach.
