Why do we land in Spain and then immediately drive past the centre of the location at which we have arrived?
Contrary to popular myth, Malaga is marvellous. Girona is great. And Alicante is a location that warrants a closer inspection than simply a quick look over your shoulder from behind the window of a car or coach.
It’s a bad habit when it comes to seeing Spain. No sooner has the plane landed, than people head off to the Costa del Sol, Costa Brava or Costa Blanca. All excellent destinations in their own right, no doubt.
But the cities themselves are worthy of more than just a landing stage for your aircraft. Take time out at the start or end of your holiday and experience city life, Spanish style.
Beginning with Alicante.
Anything to declare?
There is much more to Alicante than a busy airport and duty free goods.
I know the city to have an ideal mix of old and new. Spend at least one day, or prefereably a long weekend, in Alicante. There are plenty of options when it comes to where to stay, including apartments and villas to rent in Alicante.
At the height of summer the beaches and city streets can be busy but, at most other times of the year, there is room for everyone to sample the true splendour of the place. The pedestrian only backstreets of the city are charming and many a pretty church or notable building is only around the next corner.
The Ayuntamiento (town hall) building is a short distance from the beach. In the reception is a striking statue of Salvador Dali, whose connections with Spain are many.
On the first step of the grand staircase is the ‘cota cero’ – a brass stud used to measure the height of the sea level of all Spanish towns. Climb the stairs and visit the impressive ‘Blue Room’ and a small chapel.
Two museums that display many fine works of art are the Mubag museum which is located in an 18th century mansion, the Palacio Gravina; and the Museo de la Asegurada in Plaza Santa María, directly next to the oldest church in Alicante.
Works by Dali, Miró and Picasso are on show. To see much more of Picasso, visit another great city in Spain, Malaga.
City highs
Alicante Highs and Lows
Overlooking the sea and city from a vast height is the castle of Alicante, the Castillo de Santa Bárbara. It sits on the top of Monte Benacantil. For the fitter tourist it is possible to climb to a viewing area that will offer you panoramic views along the ever popular Costa Blanca
The Santa Cruz area of the city resembles the characterful streets of somewhere such as Seville, another special city to visit in Spain. Narrow streets of houses painted in various colours will lead you to the 18th century Chapel of Santa Cruz. It is in this barrio that the most atmospheric celebrations are held at Easter.
Sand and Shops
Room on the Beach
After walking the streets of the city you can then treat yourselves by luxuriating on a beach. We suggest you go a little south of the harbour area. You will have much more sand to yourself on the beaches at San Gabriel and San Juan. The centrally located Playa del Postiguet can be extremely crowded in summer months. The coastal railway links all the main beaches.
Alternatively go shopping. All the usual suspects of the retail world exist in Alicante. There are also many smart, independent fashion retailers located in traffic free streets.
Sail away
Sail to Tabarca
One popular excursion by boat from the seafront is to the island of Tabarca. It is 11 miles south east of Alicante and just three miles from the cape of Santa Pola. Much of the island is a protected marine reserve. Activities involving motors are banned as is scuba diving or the collection of the flora and fauna. It is a beautiful island that is best visited outside of the high season when too many visitors can prevent you from enjoying its natural tranquillity.
Do try the ‘Caldero’ when dining on Tabarca. This stewed fish meal is similar to the Portuguese favourite dish ‘Cataplana’ and is cooked in a large metal kettle.
It is also possible to sail further afield from the harbour at Alicante. Depending on the time of year, there are ferries to Ibiza and the distinctive islands of Majorca.
City limits
Petrer
Outside of Alicante city centre there are numerous traditional towns and villages to visit.
Santa Pola is a little further south along the Costa Blanca coastline but is worth the journey. A thriving working town it is popular for its charming harbour and for its salt ponds. The lagoons at the Natural Park of Salinas de Santa Pola attract both resident and migratory birds such as the flamingo. There is also an interesting salt museum nearby.
Also worth a visit is the Renaissance style castle built in 1558. Now used as a cultural centre it includes the Museum of the Sea, the Museum of Fishing and a small chapel, Virgen de Loreto. Although more commercial resorts such as Torrevieja are only a short drive away, Santa Pola remains resolutely Spanish and is a good place to base yourself if wanting to see more of this area.
In the opposite direction out of Alicante you will come to Petrer, which is both compact and pretty. Its situation, close to the motorway network, provides easy access to the centre of Alicante. Petrer is very much a regular working Spanish town. It has excellent facilities for shopping and entertainment.
There are many international restaurants to choose from along this coastline and in the city of Alicante itself. Freshly caught fish is on offer daily.
I first met my original Spanish teacher in England many years ago. But Esteban Jiminez was born and bred in Alicante and still lives just outside the city. He tells me: “Ever since I was a boy the fishing trade here has been under threat. Many large families depend on the industry and they are worried that fewer fish are being caught in the region. Thankfully the tourist demand for freshly caught fish is still good. The problem is supplying the demand.”
Night shift
Super Supper
By night the city of Alicante comes alive. Those leaving the office gather at atmospheric bars such as Lizarran. There are two branches of this excellent chain of tapas restaurants in Alicante. The company hails from the Basque country and so the food on offer is more akin to the Pinxtos one might find in bars in Bilbao, rather than traditional tapas bars in, for example, Andalucia.
Carl Cooke lives in the city and sings its praises to anyone who will listen. He told me: “I lived in Barcelona previously and that is, of course, a marvellous city. The only trouble is everyone knows that and so it has become too busy for my liking.
“So few fellow Brits visit Alicante for more than a day. When the coaches leave, it is remarkably quiet for such a big city. It has a life of its own that is not dependent on mass tourism.”
Happy landings
When it comes to city life in Spain, my advice is simple.
Don’t drive directly past the city in which you have landed in Spain. Take time out. Stop, look and listen to the nearest city and savour what places such as Alicante have to offer.
You are happy that you have landed in Spain. So make yourself even happier. Don’t just look at the city from the terminal building of the airport.
Take one small step into Alicante. When it comes to experiencing what makes an authentic Spanish city tick; you’ll be making a giant leap in your understanding of this vibrant and varied country.
