…Or at least it was to El Greco, the famous painter. He came, he saw and he was enchanted by the walled city of Toledo in 1577. A ‘ jobbing artist ‘ he was gainfully employed to paint the altarpiece in the convent of Santo Domingo of Antiguo, but decided to make Toledo his home and stayed there until his death in 1614.
Before Madrid was the capital!
We stopped there for a day en route to Madrid airport last year – it lies about 70km south of the capital – and vowed to return, if not for as long a sojourn as El Greco then at least maybe a romantic weekend! Situated on a hilltop, above the river Tagus, it’s easy to see why the Visigoths made Toledo their capital of Spain way back in the 6th Century.
Toledo towering tall
Strolling and discovering…
It is possible to explore the city on foot in a day, but you’ll need to remember to pack the blister pads! Better to stay overnight or even a weekend and take your time discovering the twisting medieval streets and alleys, buildings and sights. Even better still, book a week self catering and make time to explore the surrounding countryside of La Mancha, it’s flat plains dotted with the windmills of Don Quixote, perfect for picnics…..
Don Quixote's backyard...
Shopping and sword fights
Back to the city, make sure that you visit the Cathedral, built during the melting pot times of Christians, Jews and Muslims, go souvenir shopping and make a little boy (or a big boy!) happy with a replica sword, Toledo’s most famous export. If you haven’t had enough of William and Kate and it’s royalty you’re after, make time for Charles V’s palace, the Alcázar, formerly a military academy, which also houses an army museum.
Sweet tooth?
Another export is marzipan, made here in the Pastelería Santo Tomé, perfect after a lunch of estofado of Partridge, a delicious stew and a local specialty. You’ll find this lovely Pastelería in the Jewish quarter, which also houses the Casa Museo de El Greco, said to be the painters house and now home to a collection of his works. (His masterpiece The Burial of the Count of Orgaz is in the Iglesia de Santo Tomé, in the same area).
So whether you drop in for the day, have that romantic weekend getaway (I’m still waiting!) or stay a little longer, just don’t pass by Toledo, because then you would pass up the opportunity to delve into Spain’s past and miss out on a stunning location.
