I have written previously about the unique feel to the Ebro Delta.
Now it is time to plan my visit to the neighbouring Ebro Valley.
But where to see and what to do? How best do i plan a trip to a part of Spain I have never previously visited?
That is the dilemma facing every visitor to Spain who has only enough time to pack, and not enough time to plan.
Miravet. Photo by: Flickr Marlis1
When you are preparing to visit a location in Spain, do you research where to see and what to do in advance? Have you the time? Maybe you have a quick look on the internet and download some basic information.
I find that the best way to research a location I am about to visit is to speak to someone who lives there. Who knows a place better than someone for whom the area is not only the place they relax, but also the place where they work.
Dena Rowlands is accustomed to welcoming visitors to the Ebro Valley.
So, before setting off north, I though it best to ask Dena some questions. I began by asking her what first attracted her to the Ebro Valley?
She replied. “I remember the first time we drove inland from the Costa Dorada up to the River Ebro. I was amazed at how green everything was. Pine clad mountains and in the valley acres of fruit trees (peach, pear, cherry, orange). The following day we explored in the mountains and the day after that we were on the Delta with canals, lagoons and rice paddies!.
“All within an hour from the hotel we were staying in on the coast. So, for me it is the beauty and diversity of the landscape in such a relatively small area. There are actually three natural parks in this compact area, those at Montsant, Els Ports and the Ebro Delta.”
Tortosa. Photo: Flickr Marlis1
So what kind of tourist is most attracted to holiday there?
Dena said: “The Department of Tourism for the Terres de l’Ebre describes this area as a “new area for rural tourism.” We don’t see any beer, beach and bingo holidaymakers here. Instead the area attracts people who want some kind of activity or sightseeing holiday.
“Up to a few years ago the majority of visitors were English and German anglers – keen to catch the wild carp and huge catfish that inhabit the river. In our own apartments we have experienced a significant increase in bird watchers and walkers in spring and autumn, and also families in the summer.
“For the walkers there are several mountain ranges and over the last few years many old trails have been cleared to make superb day-hikes and half-day hikes. The tourism department produced several walking route leaflets in English, French, Catalan and Spanish. There are river walks, mountain walks, strolls through vineyards and coastal walks – something for all abilities and tastes.
Ebro Valley. Photo by Flickr Marlis1
“For the binocular carrying bird watching brigade the area is heaven. There are an incredible number of birds to be seen thanks to the various habitats. Vultures and eagles in the mountains, sea birds, wading birds, woodland birds. The Ebro Delta alone boasts over 300 species of bird living on, or visiting, the Delta. There are bird hides positioned at key spots and there is a very good Ecomuseum.”
But, I inform Dena, while I appreciate the birds in the sky I don’t particularly want to spend the entire time looking up. What sights can I see in the Ebro Valley that are at ground level.
She tells me: “For those interested in history and sightseeing, there are picturesque medieval villages, castles and ancient monasteries. Then, don’t forget, there are the cities of Tortosa, Reus and Tarragona.”
Party time in Tarragona. Photo: Flickr zwigmar
Now Tarragona is a place I have read about and wish to take time to explore. There are plenty of smashing places to rent in and around Tarragona.
The old and ancient attractions in the area are self evident. But what, I ask Dena, is new?
She says: “There are also two relatively new attractions in and around the Ebro Valley. There are Civil War sites and a Civil War Museum at Gandesa. The Battle of the Ebro being one of the bloodiest and definitive battles of the Spanish Civil War. Then we have the wine tourists. They come to visit the east of the Ebro Valley and the prestigious Priorat Wine area where some 45 cellars now offer wine tours.”
Now Dena is talking my language!
Plaça de la Font, Tarragona Photo: Flickr zwigmar
But when, I ask resident Dena, are the the best times of year to visit there and why?
“For the walkers and birders it is March, April, May, Sept, October and November that are the best times. That is when the temperatures are the most pleasant. In the summer months families and groups arrive for activity holidays, including fishing, canoeing, archery and horseriding. Those who don’t mind getting wet will love a canoe trip down the river.
“For the families it helps that we are are only 45 minutes from PortAventura Theme Park near Salou. For the past three years we have had several families with young ones or teenagers. They choose our apartments in Mora d’Ebre because they want to have a mixture of rural activities. They have a holiday that is combined with a day or two on the beach and a trip to the theme park. Some have returned two or three times and even the teenagers have loved it.”
It is just one of many fun water parks to visit in Spain.
Tortosa Renaissance Festival. Photo: Flickr Marlis1
Summer is, of course, the height of fiesta season. So I ask Dena about her favourite local fiestas.
She says: “The Tortosa Renaissance Festival is fabulous. The old part of the city is returned to medieval times. The parades, the costumes, the entertainment, the atmosphere. It is just fantastic and is credited as a fiesta of national tourist interest.”
Dena confirms to me that there is a growing choice of town, village apartments and country houses dotted all the way down the Ebro Valley from Mora d’Ebre to the Delta.
Ebro Valley at Miravet. Photo by Phil Blackburn
So which, I wonder, are the best cities, towns and villages to visit for those who, like me, don’t know one end of a fishing rod from the other?
Dena Rowlands tells me: “The village of Miravet is a beautiful place sitting right at the edge of the River Ebro. It has a Templar castle an old river ferry and is also famed for its pottery. For an excursion out of the Ebro Valley, you only have to travel for around forty five minutes and you are in Tarragona. It is a must see city for its Roman remains, superb shops and restaurants. A city with a nice vibe overlooking the Med but without the crowds or ‘in your face’ tourism of Barcelona.”
Canoeing on the Ebro River. Photo by: Albert de la Hoz, Barcelona
So now I am well prepared for my visit to the Ebro Delta. I have information from someone who lives and breaths this very diverse, unspoilt and splendid part of Spain.
I almost wish I could fish.
Almost!
* photos courtesy of Flickr Marlis1 http://bit.ly/qRuXJ1 Flickr Francesc Perez http://bit.ly/nOiamB Flickr: Albert de la Hoz http://bit.ly/rlOFdY
Flickr: Phil Blackburn http://bit.ly/pfdXqQ Flickr: Zwigmar http://bit.ly/qEFJ87
